Use this guide to remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro. This is best done with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit; the liquid adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.
Alternatively, you can use an iOpener to apply a modest amount of heat in order to soften the adhesive before prying out the battery. IFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure. For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.
If your battery is swollen,. Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent. If you're using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe (no longer sold),.
System requirement: Mac OS X 10.2 or newer. An ISO keyboard is required to make full use of the layout. You have an ISO keyboard if there is a key between the left shift key and the Z (on a qwerty keyboard; between shift and Y on a qwertz keyboard). Command-tasten (⌘), som bruges i de fleste Mac-tastaturgenveje. At kunne bruge PrintScreen-funktionen eller bytte Command- og Alt-knappernes placering. Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with. Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.
I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic.
Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/.
This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants. Add a comment.
Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.
Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent). WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket!
I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side! - Add a comment.
I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes. Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out. Took me about 1 hour.
The iopener required more than 30s for me to heat up, but I got it done. My macbook was damaged because of a wine spill. Not sure how the battery got damaged as a result, as there appeared to be no liquid there, but. Also, a bunch of the steps are not necessary, if you are careful. You do need to get the speakers out, but you don't need to do some of the other stuff.
I skipped 7-12 and 15, instead folding over the speakers carefully, without detaching them. Just finished this. Thank you very much for this detailed guide. I used isopropyl alcohol (IPA) against the glue and it worked really well with some patience and lots of tactical tilting.
I would still go with the iFixit package if it was shipped to my country, because it’s probably a bit easier and because iFixit is awesome and cool. While this certainly isn’t a repair for a beginner I wouldn’t say it’s so hard. It’s really only hard because of the glue removal and the careful prying of the various connectors. The rest is just loosening screws and keeping them in order. The debacle continues: 1.
You can destroy your keyboard while doing this repair, and the guide does not adequately warn you of this possibility. The keyboard is one of the most expensive and difficult components to replace on this model. While iFixit advertises the replacement battery as OEM, Apple will not recognize it as such. If you then bring it to an Apple store to see if they will repair it, they will flat out refuse to repair your machine. Again, another negative outcome of this repair that it fails to warn about.
Bytte Tastatur Macbook
Considering the Apple replacement is $200, it is simply not worth the risk to your machine (and the future option to ever have it repaired by Apple again) to save $100. It is reckless, disingenuous, and actively harms the right to repair movement to fail to warn users of this kind of extreme risk. There’s a warning in the introduction at the top of the guide to take care where you put the solvent. I know that’s zero consolation and it always sucks to have a repair go sideways on you; I’m just not sure what more can be done at this point. I’ve done a number of MBP batteries with this procedure and had no issues so far, following the procedure closely.
If you haven’t already, you may want to reach out to the folks to see about a refund on your kit, so you’re at least not out the cost of that. @Jeff, I’ve already reached out and indicated my frustration, and yeah, a refund is about the best I can hope for at this point to at least offset the additional repairs necessary.
I was very careful with the solvent, but it is not at all obvious how it is even possible to get it into the keyboard (which you can’t even see without removing the logic board). I don’t think the guide is clear enough on how to avoid this particular damage, and judging by the comments here, a number of others have had similar problems. Keep in mind, the guide is for people who haven’t done this before and are probably only going to do it one time. They don’t have the specialized knowledge that comes from working on Macbooks frequently. It has to be as specific as possible to the point of hand holding and even warning that you are probably better off just paying the extra $100 to make sure it is done with no extra risk. Additionally, the guide makes no mention that the replacement battery will result in your machine being banished from Apple’s repair depots.
I think that is critical information that a potential buyer needs in order to make a fully informed purchase decision. You can’t claim a battery as OEM when that OEM will disavow it. Hey all, i followed the instruction and it worked pretty well for me.
I just have noticed, once my macbook started again, that it doesnt find any documents, applications or any other file via spotlight function and via the search function in the finder anymore. I tried already to reset the spotlight search by adding and deleting HD to the privacy of the spolight search, but that didnt work for me. Does anybody know how to solve this problem. I try to avoid to set up my mac via recovery disc.
Thanks, pete.
Your Apple wireless device came with AA batteries installed. You can replace them with alkaline, lithium, or rechargeable AA batteries. Warning: Don’t mix battery types (for example, alkaline and lithium batteries), and don’t mix old batteries with new batteries. Don’t open or puncture the batteries, install them backwards, or expose them to fire, high temperatures, or water. Don’t charge non-rechargeable AA batteries. Keep batteries out of the reach of children.
Replace or recharge all batteries at the same time. Important: Dispose of batteries according to your local environmental laws and guidelines.